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  1. 231 points
    Aslain.com is powered by ...support us today and get a professional Quality game server from BlackBoxServers.net Download for World of Tanks Aslain's WoT ModPack v1.2.0.2 #03 (~137 MB) download link #1 [direct] (version without adult mods) download link #2 [direct] download link #3 [direct] download link #4 [direct] download link #5 [direct] SHA256: bd600774f78b383a4a5b33104e04f5ec203225a0a1feb359f30d5729769fd217 (for links #2-5) XVM with my config only download link [direct] You may use following tools to support modpack developement and efforts, posted them as requested by users: or donate: v1.2.0.1 #11 (02-11-2018): - fixed typo in the modpack checker modChangelog
  2. 112 points
    Aslain.com is powered by ...support us today and get a professional Quality game server from BlackBoxServers.net Downloads for World of Warships Aslain's WoWs ModPack v7.11.1 #02 (~100 MB) download link #1 [direct] download link #2 [direct] download link #3 [direct] SHA256: 4df37bf0f35706d9cb3383379be8401b6fc234fcf405a8ed3b30b9999eb72525 Installation: - select folder where is your WoWS installed - pick your mods and options, click next to finish - when you want to select different mods, launch the installer again Uninstalling: - use uninstalling feature from windows system - if you still cannot start your game, perform this action http://tinyurl.com/z23lxng You may use following tools to support me, posted them as requested by users:or donate: Changelog:
  3. 38 points
    v3.7.11 (23-07-2014): - added King Julien (Madagascar) (Polish lang) crew voices to DLC - added Julie Voice Pack to DLC - fixed an issue where the installer would become unusable if moved before the components page
  4. 29 points
    Aslain.com is powered by ...support us today and get a professional Quality game server from BlackBoxServers.net Pliki dla World of Tanks Aslain's WoT ModPack v1.2.0.2 #03 (~137 MB) download link #1 [direct] (bez modów dla dorosłych] download link #2 [direct] download link #3 [direct] download link #4 [direct] download link #5 [direct] SHA256: bd600774f78b383a4a5b33104e04f5ec203225a0a1feb359f30d5729769fd217 (dla linków #2-5) Sam XVM z moim konfigiem download link [direct] Jeśli z własnej nieprzymuszonej woli zechcesz wesprzeć moją pracę, możesz wykorzystać poniższe możliwości: albo dotacja na PayPal: Dziennik zmian
  5. 25 points
    I finally did it... I've gotten my recent WN8 above 3,000. I intend to keep it climbing, but for now - I'm going to jot down a few key things which I have learned that really stand out. Maintain a healthy situational awareness: Don't let yourself tunnel vision... no matter what you do, no matter how you're fighting or who you're fighting, you always want to watch your surroundings. Not only will you be able to detect enemy vehicles trying to flank you before they get the opportunity, but you will also be more likely do dodge artillery, and avoid finding yourself in a crossfire. I've seen too many allies and enemies focus upon one vehicle in the battle, only for their enemy to take advantage of this and absolutely wreck them. Don't be afraid to pull back from a flank: If your gun is desperately needed in a flank, put it in there and use it. However, there are times when it becomes increasingly obvious that the flank you are at will be quickly overrun, or flanked and destroyed from behind. If your flank is disintegrating, don't be afraid to turn your tank around and put on your "Nope" shoes. However, if you feel as though you need to pull back, don't hesitate. The more time you spend at a failing flank, the more likely you are to be shot up during your grand escape. When I feel as though it's time to begin pulling back, if I don't begin moving immediately, all too often I'll be destroyed while I'm trying to escape. If you find that you have hesitated for too long and escape is now impossible, just stick with your allies and try to do as much as you possibly can... the enemies which overrun you are the same enemies that the rest of your allies will be fighting, so at least try to cripple them. If your gun is not shooting your tracks should be rolling: If you are not contributing to the battle, your allies are effectively down a tank. There are very few times when you should be cowering behind a corner while your allies are fighting... usually this is only the case for non-scout autoloading tanks. However, unless you have an empty autoloader or a very long reload, you should be in the battle. Yes, you should wait for the right opportunity to make your moves, but don't hesitate for extended periods of time. The longer you're not doing anything, the more likely your allies are to lose. XVM Win Chance is not to be used to judge a battle before it starts. Remember - it's a chance (i.e. prediction of the likelihood of a victory or loss). If your chance to win is low (let's say 33%), you will still win 1 out of every 3 battles with similar predictions - however, if you give up and don't even try in the battle, you are only reducing your chance to win; and often times significantly. Also, keep in mind that recent posts on the Forums and FTR including data from thousands of battles has indicated that in general, XVM Win Chance gives an inaccurate prediction - If you were to average the XVM Predictions for 1,000 battles (let's say you end up with the number 55%), you would find that (assuming you don't give up) will win anywhere from 1%-5% more battles than it predicts (the greater the gap between your recent WN8 and overall, the greater the percentage of additional victories). Even though 1%-5% doesn't seem like much, keep in mind that is 10-50 more victories than XVM predicted... if you give up when you see a low Win Chance, you are more than likely to turn some of those would-be victories into losses. Don't let XVM Win Chance ruin your mood - it's a prediction of probability, and an inaccurate one at that. Every battle always has a chance to be won. Giving up or getting upset about the prediction only reduces the likelihood that you will win. If the entire team lemming trains... follow the train: Sadly, there are times when the entire team goes off in one direction, or rather simply sits at base. If your team does this, don't go off on your own to a doomed flank. The only result will be that you get yourself killed to no avail. When your team lemmings, follow the lemming train and make it a success. Once you've won your lemming flank, either push to the enemy base, or fall back to your own... just work with what you have and make the lemming train work. Never trust allies: As much as I hate to say it, you just can't trust your allies. Unless you got confirmation from an ally that they will do exactly what you have told them to do, don't expect an ally to do anything, no matter how simple or easy it is. Sadly, most players in pub battles are a lot worse than you would hope. Do not do anything that relies heavily on your team. Always leave yourself an escape route and a Plan B. Also, communicate. Talk with your allies... if you want them to move up, or support you, let them know. Saying "Attack!" or "Help!" won't work... type out a text message and try to get confirmation from your allies that they will follow it... and if you get no response, assume they're doing their own thing. If you're going to say something, make it positive: If you're going to type in the chat, keep it positive. Negative text only reduces your team's chance to win by taking the focus of your allies away from the game, as well as breaking their mood and focus. If you want an ally to do something, be specific: Earlier today, there was a JagTiger 8,8cm. facing a Chaffee who's behind a rock. The JgTig8,8cm can one-shot the Chaffee, and the two tanks are 300m away from eachother. The Chaffee isn't even directly behind the rock... he's a distance aways from it. I told my JgTig to move his tank and kill the Chaffee... sadly, he drove straight up to the rock and let the Chaffee circle him... all what the JgTig needed to do was turn his tank to the left, and move about 30m or so to the left... driving up to the rock was not only unnecessary, but suicidal. Obviously, that was my fault. I presumed that the JgTig would figure out that he simply needed to change his line of sight.. instead, he charged the Chaffee (plunging his tank into shallow water, thus reducing his speed). The way my comment came out was unproductive, and had very negative consequences. I needed to specify to the JgTig that he needs to move 30m to the left so he'll have shots at the enemy Chaffee. Have fun: If you lose, or if you have a bad battle, bad RNG or something of the sort, try not to get frustrated. Frustration only reduces your focus, and will only make you do worse, thus become even more frustrated... the cycle then repeats as a self-fulfilling prophecy. If you did well, even if you lost or missed a critical shot, keep your cool. Take note of what you did wrong and what you could have done better, but don't get frustrated. Instead of focusing on the negatives of a battle, focus on its positives. Criticize yourself: Watch your own replays, or think about how you did and what you did after a battle ends. Try to find your mistakes and realize what you did wrong. If you discovered something new which works out very well, take note of that as well. Learn from mistakes, and emphasize your strengths. Don't be afraid to ask for help. I may have 3,000 recent WN8, but there are still some things which I have no idea how to do - I'm clueless when it comes to setting up my artillerly, I have no idea how to brawl in the city in Windstorm, I just can't stop drifting in my MT-25 when trying to circle a tank, and despite putting on Camo, Emblems and Inscriptions onto everyone of my tanks prior to taking them out to battle, I did not realize that I could translate the inscriptions in foreign languages to English by simply highlighting them. Everyone has there strengths and weaknesses. I can't play slow tanks very well - I try to avoid any tank which is not fast (or at least fast for its class). There are some parts of maps which I have never once taken my tank to fight, even though I see allies go there all the time. There are maps which I've mastered one side of the map, and haven't learned any of the other side... obviously that's bad. I perform a lot better on maps on which I am familiar with the entire map. That's why when I have the opportunity, I will explore and try out the "other side" of any map I'm not familiar with. Keep learning, keep asking questions. When trying to learn how to play a tank, focus on playing only that tank... don't keep bouncing around back and forth between the tanks in your Garage. Yes, it may be frustrating at first because you're unfamiliar with the tank, but the only way you will master a tank is by playing it and (not necessarily solely but) mostly it. You won't learn how to play your heavy tanks if you keep switching back to lights, and you won't master scouting if you bounce between your TD's. There are times when your team is at a position to absolutely over-whelm the remaining enemy, but they are all too afraid to move up. If telling them to move up in chat doesn't work, sometimes you will have to be the one who leads the push into the enemy. You don't have to suicidally rush out; you can inch out and try to encourage the enemy to fire their guns and bounce off of your armor, but if the enemy don't fire then at least your allies are likely to being inching out with you. If you have the HP and armor though, sometimes you will have to sacrifice a handful of your tank's HP to allow your allies to win the push. 99% of the time in this scenario, as soon as the enemy fire off their guns your allies will push all the way up. Just make sure that there aren't any TD's or artillery waiting to strike - if that's the case, you may be better off leaving your allies there and trying to go around. If you don't have the HP nor armor, you may have no choice but to go around, or wait for your allies. The very least you can do is tell your allies which tanks they have that are in the best position (and most likely to survive) a forwards push, to hopefully give your team the courage to do something... but don't be the one who sits still with your allies in silence; otherwise you're contributing to their cowardice. If you can't lead the push yourself, at least try to organize a push via. chat, or flank around the enemy to distract them from behind. My apologies for the blob of text, and for any errors which it may contain. I'm tired right now, and was about to go to sleep, until I discovered I reached my goal. I hope my tips prove to be useful!
  6. 20 points
    v3.7.12 (25-07-2014): - updated Gnome's gun sounds v1.9421 (DLC)
  7. 14 points
    v3.7.13 (29-07-2014): - fixed downloading & installing of lgfrbcsgo's Improved Lighting Mod v1.3 - fixed config not loading when trying to install hp bars on players panel with default icons selected - added missing fonts to the installer - updated Permanent Channels v1.3.0 by Pleiadi - updated Team HP Pool Bar v91b by Locastan
  8. 12 points
    v0.1.1 (02-05-2015): - updated Aslain's contour icons for - updated MajorRenegade's contour icons for - updated MLP Flags by MajorRenegade for - marked Hootorez's contour icons as old due the fact he stopped supporting his mods
  9. 10 points
    v3.8.1 (01-08-2014): - updated XVM-5.3.3 (3060) - re-added: Gnomefeather's sound mods - re-added: Improved Lighting Mod v1.4 - re-added: Colored Wrecks of destroyed tanks - re-added: RVT 9.2 - re-added YasenKrasen PL - re-added Multilined Tank Carousel 1.5.3 - re-added J1mB0's Crosshair Mod v1.41 - re-added Premium hangar for non-premium users - re-added GoHaru hitzone kins - fixed small bug in the installer related to cleaning up WoT cache - fixed installing Zoom x30 (0.9-30) - fixed installing TeamHpPools - removed Wide borders of map mod (causing issues with WoT 9.2) - removed Sword of Damocles v7.7 crosshair (causing issues with WoT 9.2)
  10. 10 points
    v3.7.14 (30-07-2014): - new feature added: the auto-installing custom mods (to make it work you have to prepare a .zip or .7z with your custom mods inside, name it mod1 (thru 10) and place it inside Aslains_Custom_mods folder, then it shall be automaticaly installed by the installer every time you are using it). Warning: do not mix zip and 7z at the same time! Valid file names are from mod1 to mod10. - changed aslains_downloaded_files folder into Aslains_DLC_cache (you have to manualy remove old folder, and/or copy it's contents to Aslains_DLC_cache if you want to avoid redownloading) - applied some minor enhancements to the installer
  11. 9 points
    For my fourth installment of the "A Guide to..." Series, I will be discussing Spotting Mechanics. My intent is to clear up any and all confusion that people may have in regards to this complex aspect of gameplay in World of Tanks. I hope this helps! Newbie Ranking: 8 (Advanced) Bushes: Perhaps the most renowned aspect of Spotting Mechanics; bushes are the primary source of camouflage providers that you may find on the battlefield. The larger the bush, the better it conceals your tank. However, it is a bit more complicated than that. Another variable that affects how much camouflage you are receiving from a bush is your own distance and positioning in regards to said bush. There are 5 positions that come to mind when it comes down to choosing where to place your tank in respect to a bush. However, only 2 of these positions are widely accepted, with a third being highly situational. In Front: Hiding in front of a bush is a mistake rarely made; however I have seen a few new players believing that a bush will provide you camouflage as long as you're next to it. Wrong! The bush must be directly blocking the enemy's line of sight to your tank in order for you to get a camo bonus. In the Bush: This is the very situational positioning. Usually, hiding inside of a bush does not provide you with maximum camouflage. However, if you are surrounded by enemies from all sides, and need to try to cover every nook and cranny of your tank, then hiding inside of a large bush is most likely your best hope of not getting spotted. Slightly behind the bush (with the very front of the tank partially inside): This is an accepted form of hiding your tank; hiding mostly behind the bush, with only a small part of your frontal hull inside of the bush. However, be aware that the closer you are to the center of a bush, the less camo it provides you with. 1m to 15m behind a bush: This is also an accepted form of hiding your tank. If you keep a small distance behind the bush that you are using to camouflage your tank, then the bush is providing you with the most camo that it can. However, the bush must be directly in the enemy's line of sight towards your tank. If part of your tank is not being blocked by the bush, then the enemy can easily spot you. More than 15m behind a bush: While hiding far behind a bush still provides you with camo, assuming the bush is blocking the enemy's line of sight, there is a catch with this form of hiding: It also reduces your own View Range. Any bush or tree farther than 15m from your tank provides you with camo, at the cost of View Range. Those bushes and trees will then be providing camouflage to the enemy; thus making it harder to spot them. This is why tanks are so hard to spot in the "Magic Tank-Eating Forest of Death" in Murovanka. This is also the same reason why tanks are so hard to spot in any location with very dense foliage. This 15m concept is what allows even Heavy tanks to stay so well camouflaged when given a large amount of foliage. It's not hacks; just foliage. Some people complain about this system, yet think about it. When you are strolling through a forest, when would you spot a bear wandering around? You probably wouldn't see the bear until it is relatively close to you, am I right? The same thing applies to world of tanks. Even a heavy tank can be hidden entirely if given the right amount of camouflage. Obstacles: Any sort of obstacle, such as a cliff face, rock, building, etc. can also hide a tank. If a tank is completely behind the obstacle; then it will not be spotted. Here is a visual example in order to clear up any confusion as to what this means. In this first image, I am right next to an ELC AMX. In fact, I'm only 70m away from the ELC AMX. Yet I don't see it. See the cloud of smoke coming from the bush directly in front of me? That cloud of smoke is coming from a destroyed tank, which the ELC AMX is hiding behind. Here is the same scenario; except I have moved beyond the bush and the bump in the ground that it was on. Now that my tank is in a different position, I have a line of sight towards the ELC AMX. Note: The destroyed tank in the image is part of the map; thus it counts as an obstacle. A tank destroyed in combat does not provide cover for other tanks. This is one of the reasons why you might not spot an enemy tank until it's right next to you... it was being covered by an obstacle. The same concept applies to bumps and ditches in the ground. If you manage to place your tank outside of an enemy's line of sight, then the enemy will not be able to spot you. Hiding Behind Allies: You see a large heavy tank in front of you, so you decide to place your scout tank directly behind it in hopes of preventing your tank from being spotted. The heavy tank is an Ally, and is 100m away from an enemy directly in front of it. Unfortunately, hiding your tank behind the heavy will not hide your tank as it would if it were a rock or building. I tested this out several times with even an ELC AMX, and the same results came: The scout was spotted behind the heavy tank; despite the fact that it was completely covered by the heavy. A visual example is below. See what I mean? The scout tank is still spotted; even though no part of his tank is directly visible. Ditches and Bumps: Ditches and bumps are also effective methods of hiding your tank. I already partially covered this in the "Obstacles" section, but a visual example is best for illustrating exactly how this concept of hiding your tank with the terrain works. In this first image, I am in my T110E5, less than 150m away from a T29 heavy tank. There are no bushes or trees blocking my lines of sight towards the heavy tank, nor are there buildings or rocks. However, the T29 is in the ditch next to the lakeside, thus his tank is out of my line of sight. He can see me, but I can't see him. See what I mean? The T29 isn't spotted; but nothing is blocking my line of sight (he is not behind one of the patches of bushes). After moving closer however, I now can see his tank. And there he is! If your tank is in a deep ditch in the ground, or protected by a large bump, then you tank is also much harder to spot unless the enemy vehicle is very close to you. 50m Circle (Auto-Detection Range): Around every tank, there is this concept known as the 50 meter circle, which is also called the Auto-Detection Range. Essentially, if your tank is within 50 meters of an enemy vehicle, no matter how well camouflaged or well-hidden the enemy is, you are guaranteed to see him/her. This was implemented into the game in order to prevent tanks from being able to remain 100% invisible even if you are inches away from them. In particular, this affects TD's, some mediums, SPG's, and any tank behind buildings or rocks. Here is a brilliant visual example of this concept. In this image, there are 4 (four!) tanks in the image. Yet only one is spotted, which is the heavy tank. I am 52 meters away from each one of the 4 tanks, yet I only see the heavy tank. So where are the other 3 enemy vehicles? Watch what happens when I drive 3m closer. I am now 49m away from each tank. And there they are! Any tank within 50m of your tank will be spotted; regardless of its location, camouflage, and obstacles around it. Trees: Standing trees also provide you with large amounts of camo; especially when they are in tight clusters. This is why Muronovka's forest is called the "Magic Tank-Eating Forest of Death". Even heavy tanks can easily remain hidden! Once again, I felt as though a visual example would be best to accurately describe just how effective trees can be. In this image, there is a T49 53m away from me! If I were any closer, he'd be automatically spotted. He is inside of one very small bush; which provides him with very minimal camo. However, thanks to the large number of trees in front of him, he remains invisible. However, watch what happens as soon as all of the trees are removed. I am still in the same location, yet the T49 is now spotted! And that ladies and gentlemen, is why invisible snipers are so common in dense forests. Going back to my bear example however, if you were strolling through a dense forest, you probably wouldn't see a bear until it was relatively close to you, am I right? The exact same ideology applies to World of Tanks. Dense forests can easily hide even the largest of tanks. Fallen Trees: If a tree has fallen in the middle of a forest, and no one who is spotted is around to hear it, does it make a sound? The answer is yes. But does it provide camo? The answer is also yes! However, a fallen tree provides less camo than a standing tree; even though it still provides you with some camo. Some people may be skeptical of this; so I have another visual example of this! Over here, I am only meters away from an IS heavy tank, and there aren't even any standing trees providing him with camouflage! But there sure are fallen trees. Lots and lots of fallen trees have managed to hide even this giant machine from my Crew's trained eyes. Here is an aerial view of what was in front of the IS. I have now moved my tank right next to him so that he would be spotted. All of those fallen trees managed to hide that heavy tank. He would be even harder to spot if those trees were standing, however the fallen trees provided him with enough camouflage for him to remain hidden. Tank Destroyers: Massive Guns and low profiles. Tank Destroyers were designed to annihilate anything in their way without ever being spotted, just like a ninja assassin. Tank Destoyers pre-9.0 have camo bonuses after shooting; thus they don't lose as much camouflage as most tanks would after launching a shell out of their barrel. However, after the release of Patch 9.1, Tank Destroyers will lose the same amount of camouflage as any tank on the battlefield after propelling a shot. Despite this, I still have a visual example for you. Over here, I have lined up a Heavy Tank, Light Tank, Artillery piece, and a Tank Destroyer. I then had all 4 of them shoot simultaneously. Which tank was the only one not to be lit up? The Tank Destroyer of course! Fear the mighty tank destroyer! View Ports: The one thing that allows your tank to spot enemy vehicles is your View Port. Below, I have lined up several different kinds of tanks in order to spot one lone T49. The tanks that I have are a Chaffee, with a turret in the middle of his tank, my tall T110E5, with large turret and Commander's Hatch, an E-25, with a very small profile and a View Port mounted on the machine gun port on the very left side of the tank, and a Tier 9 waffle, with a rear mounted turret and View Port. First up is my T110E5. Notice how I don't have to reveal any part of my tank in order to spot the enemy T49. Since my View Port is on the tallest part of the tank, I don't have to worry about exposing my tank to enemy fire. Even though I was still spotted, only an artillery piece would be able to hit me, since the only part of my tank which was exposed was my very small View Port, which if hit, will not damage my tank's Hit Points. Next in line is the Chaffee. The Chaffee is not nearly as tall as my tank, so he has to reveal the front half of his tank in order for the T49 to be spotted. Next up is the poor E-25. One of the worst off in this scenario, the E-25 has to reveal his entire tank due to the positioning of his View Port. Last but not least is the Tier 9 waffle. With a rear mounted turret and View Port, the mini-Waffle has to expose 75% of its tank to enemy fire in order to spot the T49. In this scenario, I would turn my tank around and reverse the 25% of the rear out, so the enemy would have less to shoot at. The point is, know the location of your View Port. If your View Port does not has a clear line of view to the enemy vehicle, than you will not spot the enemy! Sitting next to Allies: This has been extremely well covered by Lert. Here's the link to his Mini-Guide to this. http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/204215-psa-what-not-to-do-when-someone-is-sitting-in-a-bush/ And here's my version of Lert's guide... Here are 2 different images. In the first, I see an AMX 50-B. Oh mah God Oh mah God Oh mah God! I must open fire upon the AMX and try to kill it! Die you bloody AMX 50-B, die! *machine gun fire sound effects* And I've killed it! Wait, no I didn't! The AMX 50-B is still alive! But instead, I killed the BT-SV that was right next to it. The morale of the story is: If you see a smaller tank hiding in a bush, don't sit next to it. Otherwise, you can easily be spotted, and thus fire will be attracted towards you. The enemy thinks that they're shooting at you, but in reality, they're hitting the ally that is right next to you! And that ally hasn't even been spotted! Thus this same scenario may end up happening. The ally will end up dying, and so will you. Thus because you decided to carelessly sit next to the ally, you not only got yourself killed, but you also indirectly caused the death of your ally. Please don't make this mistake!!! Maximum View Range: No matter how poor the enemy's camo is, or how good your View Range is, it is impossible to spot any tank that is farther than 445m away from your tank. Maximum Draw Distance: Around your tank is a theoretical 500mx500m box that denotes the maximum distance at which you can see any tank, whether it's an ally or enemy. This is one of the reasons why you are always being shot at by invisible snipers. If you have been spotted by one tank, any tank inside of that 500mx500m box can also now see you and shoot at you. Yes, this means that KV-2 that is 700m diagonally away from you can now see and shoot at you! Morale of the story? Try not to get spotted. Or if you have to be spotted, make sure you have cover around you. Radio Range vs. View Range: If an ally has a low Radio Range, then any allies outside of that Radio Range will not be able to see that first ally; even if they are within the 500x500m square around the tanks. In order for you to see an ally, you must either be within their Radio Range, or they must be within your View Range. This is why at lower Tiers, your allies on Malinovka so often disappear out of sight. Also, if an ally is spotting an enemy that is outside of your View Range, but that ally does not have enough Radio Range to signal the location to you, then you will not be able to see the spotted enemy. This is why Radios are, yes, important! Spotting Checks (Text for this section borrowed from the WoT Wiki): You will not necessarily spot an enemy tank as soon as you have line of sight on it. The rate of visibility checks is limited as follows: within 50 m range - every 0.1 sec within 150 m range - every 0.5 sec within 270 m range - every 1.0 sec within 445 m range - every 2.0 sec NOTE: While Overlord confirmed the above as still correct for 0.7.1, US community manager Vallther claimed on 23 January 2012 that the frequency of the visibility checks depends "a lot on the map" and that he "requested a total check from Q&A regarding the matter". [2] The rate limitation on visibility checks means that it is entirely possible that a hidden tank moves out of cover right after a visibility check, shoots you, and returns back into cover right before the next visibility check, thus never getting spotted and staying hidden. This can also lead to fast tanks getting spotted only closer to you than your spotting range would normally allow - at a maximum speed of 72 km/h a tank can cross 40m between spotting checks past 270m range. Updates (Things I missed and edited into the guide): Dead tanks also do not block your tank from sight, just as living allies do not. If you are farther than 15m away from a bush, than the bush's camo bonus does not drop. This also contributes to invisible snipers. Once a tank is spotted, as soon it goes out of your ally's View Ranges, then it will remain spotted for an additional 5-10 seconds, determined randomly. This is why tanks sometimes go invisible in the middle of a field... they are now out of your ally's view ranges, so it's only a matter of time until it is no longer spotted. Camouflage skills assist your tank in staying hidden. The greater your skill percentage, the less likely your tank is to be spotted. And that is all for now! This guide took me several weeks to prepare, and I hope it is useful! I would also like to give a very special thanks to all of the following people for contributing to this guide in one way or another: orinn123 SupSupCanadian SkunkButt Mikosah Inciatus hwboy3 XSlay_J1 ANiceGuy Lert CharAzn NightWolf5628 I hope this guide was very useful, and I hope that you enjoyed it! (I accept donations of +1's ) If I missed anything, or made an error, please let me know! For I must fix it immediately!
  12. 9 points
  13. 9 points
    v3.8.2 (02-08-2014): - updated XVM-5.3.3 (official) - updated TOP150 clans for EU, NA, RU servers - updated GoHaru hitzone skins - updated Man1aq's Contour Icons 92 - updated Gnomefeather's gun sounds 1.9432 - updated Team HP Pools 92a - updated Hangar Clock (also config fixed for 92) - updated Xft' DamagePanel + integrated hitlog v0.9 - udpated Damage Panel GambitER 0.9.2 - updated SeaFalcons Damage Panel + Hitlog script and swf - re-added Sounds from 0.9.1 Test 1 Mod (DLC) - re-added AutoEquip mod - re-added Received Damage Announcer v2.3 - re-added Sword of Damocles v7.7 - re-added Deegie’s Sniper Sights mod
  14. 8 points
    The path to becoming an Unicum begins here. Tip of the day offers detailed guides to many over-looked gameplay mechanics to allow you to excel in combat. Let's begin, shall we? One of the first things that you are taught when beginning World of Tanks, during the tutorial, is how to use auto-aim. Yet shortly after completing the tutorial, many players abandon auto-aim entirely. Even WarGaming's tips during battle loading say that most skilled players do not use Auto-aim... this is true... to an extent. However, auto-aim offers many tactical advantages that you would never other-wise be able to accomplish. There are several situations when auto-aim is an absolute life (tank) saver. What, when and how are all described below. 1. Driving a mobile tank. Having mobility is often times a key advantage on the battlefield. Whether you're a scout or simply a fast medium, or even TD (M41 Bulldog, Obj. 140, T67, etc.), there are times when you simply cannot afford to take your eyes off of the road; or rather, you're put into a situation where you're circling an enemy tank. In the first scenario, you may have spotted an enemy tank which you can easily penetrate but is at a distance, and you are currently spotted and engaging in evasive maneuvers. If the terrain is bumpy or is filled with obstacles, turning your turret towards the enemy tank (let's imagine it's a Nashorn) to shoot takes your eyes off of the road which consequentially may result in you colliding with a rock, building, or perhaps simply falling off of a cliff. This could make you lose a track, lose HP, or simply come to a complete stop. All of these can be devastating, and are very real possibilities; thus turning your camera in the direction of the Nashorn for extended periods of time may very well be suicidal. If the Nashorn is entirely exposed and especially if you have very clear shots at him, simply hover your mouse over him and right click. This takes a fraction of a second - as long as you have the space to drive forwards without bumping into anything for at least a couple of seconds, you'll be able to safely and efficiently shoot at him. The second case is when you are circling an enemy tank. Let's say you're an M41 Walker Bulldog circling an IS heavy tank. Manually aiming each shot can be difficult, and requires you to point your camera directly at the IS - which reduces your Field of View. Since the IS doesn't have much armor (100/90/90) compared to your penetration power (175/210), penetrating isn't really a concern... however hitting the target and avoiding shooting his hull roof at a bad angle, turret, tracks, etc. can prove to be a challenge. Enabling auto-aim whilst circling the IS will allow you to hit each of your shots and penetrate reliably. When facing a tank such as an IS-3 or IS-7 though, or when you have a shot loaded when your gun is at a bad angle, time your shots. Don't shoot without thinking - when circling an IS-7 don't bother shooting his frontal hull or even his sides if you need to make every shot count. Wait until you're at his rear end, and then shoot. There's no obligation to shoot the moment you're reloaded. Often times circling a target whilst auto-aiming at him allows you to not only hit more shots, but also allows you to move your camera freely around without messing up your aim. What this means is that you will be able to see incoming enemies ahead of time, circle the IS (or whichever tank you're circling) more efficiently, and ultimately leave the brawl with more HP left and more damage dealt. In addition, efficient circling means often times you will be far ahead of the enemy's gun - their gun is pointed in the opposite direction that you are in. This allows you take more time shooting at certain weakspots (rear), temporarily disable auto-aim to hit a cuploa perhaps, or simply get away. One thing to keep in mind about auto-aim: The moment you traverse your hull significantly in the opposite direction, your gun will be off-center; it will need half a second (more or less, depending on your turret traverse speed) to snap back onto the center of the target. When circling an un-armored target: Shoot all you wish, auto-aim will do the trick. When circling an armored target: Don't shoot until your gun is pointing at an area of the enemy tank which you can penetrate (whether that be the sides or rear). 2. When being circled by an enemy tank. Following the previous scenario, let's say that you're the IS that's being circled by the Bulldog. The Bulldog is an extremely fast but also un-armored target. Due to its speed, it's difficult to hit by manually aiming. However, it is very easy to penetrate. Right click on the Bulldog, and traverse your hull in the Bulldog's direction. Auto-aim will automatically try to keep your gun pointing at the Bulldog, thus traversing your turret. At this point you are free to point your camera wherever you wish - as soon as the gun is centered on the Bulldog, you may take a shot without worries of missing. Keep in mind that this only works at close range. Auto-aim points at the center of a target - it does not lead the enemy. This means that if you have a derp gun, or if you are shooting a shell with a low velocity, you will need to get closer to the target, or time your shot when the Bulldog is traveling in such a manner that his trajectory is in relation with your gun's line of sight - meaning he's traveling more in a parallel manner to your gun; not perpendicular. This also applies to shooting at targets at long range. If they're traveling in a parallel line to your gun, you can hit them without leading. (This applies to both, manual and auto-aim.) 3. Coming in for a drive-by shooting. Let's say you're in a Luchs about to come up to unload your clip into an M4 Sherman. Manually aiming will result in misses and bounces, or will require you to slow down which may result in... undesired... consequences. If you auto-aim at the Sherman as soon as your camera allows you to, when you round the corner or approach him, you will be able to unload your clip without misses or bounces. This is very effective for any tank that needs do a drive-by - whether it be a T49, Luchs, ELC AMX, or even a Maus driving by a T95. Please keep in mind that if you are rounding a corner, or approaching at an extremely close range your gun / turret will be off-center at first. Make sure that your aiming circle is on the enemy before shooting. This won't take long at all if you have a fast-turning turret... and if you have a slow turret, approach the target at a slight distance, and as you're driving by turn your hull in the target's direction for a moment to help your gun snap onto the mark, shoot, and turn your hull back where you want it to be pointing. (Good for a T67, Hellcat, etc.) 4. Brawling with an un-armored target. If you're engaging an un-armored tank at close range, if the tank is moving manual aim may be difficult in some scenarios. (My T110E5 shooting at a wiggling & randomly moving BatChat, etc.) Auto-aim will prevent misses in this case. Just make sure that the target has negligible armor and that your gun & aiming circle are pointing at the enemy tank) 5. Arty. This should not be used often. Artillery are very inaccurate in general, which makes auto-aiming difficult. However, there are two scenarios in which auto-aim can be very beneficial; or even save your tank. The first case is when you need to move your camera, but want to shoot at a tank which you are pre-aimed at. If the target is stationary and you are fully aimed (or still aiming), you can enable auto-aim to free your camera. You will then be able to move your camera around (or even enter / exit arty mode), and still take a shot at the enemy once you're aimed. This is very useful when you're aiming at a stationary target whilst there is a scout approaching you. Obviously you need to watch the scout's location to make sure that when you shoot you won't be spotted, or so you can move when it becomes necessary. Auto-aim will allow you to keep your gun aimed at the target, but still exit arty mode and carefully watch the scout driving near-by you. When the scout is 15m away from a bush blocking his line of sight to your entire arty, you are safe to shoot. The second scenario is when a scout tank (or any tank really) is coming at your arty. As they are approaching you, the closer they get to your artillery the more difficult it will be to keep your aiming reticle and gun centered on the target. Auto-aim will prevent this from becoming an issue and significantly increase your chances of hitting the target... however, artillery have very slow shell velocities, such as is true with howitzers. Thus the target will have to be moving in a straight line towards you, or at very close range in order for you to hit whilst auto-aiming... otherwise you will have to manually aim slightly ahead of the target. 6. Poking over hills. If your target is fully exposed and you need to crest a hill to fire at him, autoaim, crest and start pulling back and fire. You can get shots off extremely quickly and with very little exposure once you master this technique. It can similarly be used in a peekaboo fight for minimum exposure. (Credits to ballinbadger for this part.) Some very important things to remember about auto-aim: It does not lead the target. The tank you are shooting at either has to be stationary, moving in a straight line parallel to your gun's trajectory, or at very close range. It aims at the center of the target relative to your current location. This means that it does not aim at weak-spots. Shoot only when the gun is pointing at a penetrable part of the target (don't shoot at an IS-7's front - wait until you're at his sides or rear). Traversing your hull significantly, or with a slow-turning turret, will make your gun off-center. Give your turret / gun / aiming reticle the time it needs to snap back onto the target before shooting (whether that be a quarter of a second or two seconds). Auto-aim is enabled and disabled with the right mouse button. You can change this in Settings. You can enter and exit Sniper mode / Arty mode without affecting auto-aim. You can also turn your camera freely without affecting your aim when in auto-aim. Don't use this when you need to take the time to aim, or when sniping at moving targets. Please, only use auto-aim when it is appropriate. You remain centered on the enemy target as long as you are in auto-aim whilst the enemy is spotted. If you disable auto-aim, or the enemy is destroyed and / or disappears, normal gun handling returns. I hope this helps! Good luck on the battlefield, tankers.
  15. 8 points
    LOADINF for Aslain's Installer v2.7.1 ( GUI ) DOWNLOAD (GitHub - source code) [VirusTotal] LOADINF_Script_v1.2 ( Script ) DOWNLOAD README: Changelog: v2.7.1 - Changed some messages, for better understanding - Changed the pictures to some lighter ones
  16. 8 points
    v3.8.0 (31-07-2014): - compatibility with WoT 0.9.2 - updated XVM-5.3.3 (3059) - removed few incompatible mods (will re-add then later)
  17. 7 points
    Hello everyone! I've noticed a few things that many people often miss about Aslain's Mod Pack. In this Thread, I will discuss them in detail. I hope this is of some use! The topics that I will cover are: Basic Installation PSA Mixing Aslain's Mod Pack with other mod packs Files that Aslain's Mod Pack leaves behind in your Game Client. Partial Un-installation In-game Crashes and Freezes Other Information [basic Installation PSA] Whilst downloading Aslain's Mod Pack, there will not be a shortcut on the Desktop. If you are planning on using the same version of the installer in the future, go to your Downloads folder, and Create a Shortcut on your Desktop. This is also where you can access all versions of Aslain's Mod Pack that you have downloaded in the past. You may select the installer's language upon start-up. You may not change the language once you have gone past the Language pop-up. If you have selected the wrong language, turn off the installer, and turn it back on again. You will then be able to select the correct language. If Google Chrome says that Aslain's Mod Pack contains a virus, don't believe it! Google Chrome often sends off false alarms. Aslain's mod-pack is absolutely safe to use. If you cancel the installation of selected mods in the middle of the process, some traces of the modifications may remain. In order to remove these, simply go to your res_mods folder and delete them, or run a clean installation next time you download mods. [Mixing Aslain's Mod Pack with other mod packs] You can use multiple mod packs with your game client. In order to avoid conflicts, make sure that you're not installing the same mod twice, or installing an out-dated mod with a different mod pack. As long as you're installing different mods, and up-to-date mods, there should be no conflicts. You may notice that some other mod packs have similar lay-outs to Aslain's installer. Make sure that you read the buttons carefully. Some other mod pack authors use similar appearances, but may place certain buttons in different locations. Double check what you are pressing! This applies to Aslain's Mod Pack too! Other mod packs may or may not over-write mods that Aslain's Mod Pack has installed. Chances are, they will over-write and update your current mods. If this does not happen, un-install Aslain's Mod Pack, and remove any traces of it. [Files that Aslain's Mod Pack leaves behind in your Client] There are several different files that Aslain's Mod Pack will leave behind in your Client. The file names are: Aslains_Downloaded_FilesThis is where all of the archived Downloadable Content (DLC) files end up after you finish installing Aslain's Mod Pack. If you wish to remove Aslain's Mod Pack in the future, but keep one of these mods, simply drag the appropriate RAR file to your Desktop. _Aslains_InstallerThis is the text file that the Installer creates and leaves behind whilst installing your mods. This is essentially an event log of everything that the installer has done. _Aslains_Installer_CompListThis is a ReadMe file of all of the most recently installed mods and selected options. If for whatever reason Aslain's Mod Pack does not detect your most previously saved settings (usually due to a cache clearing), then this ReadMe file is where you can find exactly which mods and options you had selected. _Aslains_Installer_Options (Setup Information)This file also states which mods you had most recently installed. However, this is a file that Aslain's Mod Pack may read and use to pre-set these settings the next time you run a Custom Installation (if I am correct) _Aslains_Installer_Options (Text file)This is a Text File for Aslain's Installer. This file is not directly used by Aslain's Mod Pack, rather it's a remainder after an installation has been run. It's essentially a text file of the Setup information. unins001This is the un-installation wizard for Aslain's Mod Pack. Double click on it and follow the steps to remove Aslain's Mod Pack from your computer. You might also see a file called: IMPORTANT REGARDING THIS VERSIONThis file is left behind by GnomeFather's Historical Realism Gun Sounds Mod. Since GnomeFather's Mod is part of DLC, Aslain's Installer uses all of the files that GnomeFarther left behind in his mod, including the Read Me file. Deleting it will have absolutely no effect on your computer. [Partial Un-installation] If you want to un-install only some of the mods within Aslain's Mod Pack, you have two options. Manually look through your res_mods folder and remove the un-wanted modifications Run Aslain's Mod Pack again, except de-selcect all of the mods that you do not want. Make sure that your desired mods are still selected, and then run a Clean Installation. This will remove the un-wanted mods, and will re-install the mods that you want to keep. [in-Game Crashes and Freezes] If you are experience crashes and/or freezes in-game, there is most likely a conflict with some of the mods that you have installed. For example, if you install several different sound mods of the same type, an internal conflict error may occur and cause your game to crash. The sound mods are most likely responsible for any freezing that you will experience; especially GnomeFather's Sound Mod. Whilst known as a great mod, it is notorious for causing a screen-freeze for a few seconds whenever multiple tanks are spotted in the beginning of the battle. If your game begins crashing, this is either caused by a mod conflict (perhaps a sound mod conflict, or a conflict with other mods you had previously installed, or your computer may have ran out of memory. If you heavily mod your Game Client, and put a lot of stress on your processor, your game (whilst uncommon) may crash. Sound mods and lighting mods usually are the causes of these kinds of crashes. [Other Information] If you are experiencing a problem with Aslain's Mod Pack, you should first try a Clean installation, as well as clear your World of Tanks and Installer Cache files. If this does not work, upload your CompList and Installer Text File, and someone may be able to help resolve your issue. If you have pinned Aslain's European Forum Thread for download convenience, you should consider pinning Aslain.com instead, since Aslain has moved his download link here. If I made any errors or missed something, please let me know; and I will fix it immediately!
  18. 7 points
    Just wanted to say thank you... for creating and maintaining this wonderful pack - it makes my game live way nicer and easier. :) Big thank you and lots of hugs, Aslain! :)
  19. 6 points
    Goodbye my insolent friend, it wasn't pleasure to have you here with us. Go steal mods like you said and make own modpack before start crying like a girl. You have made my day btw :)
  20. 6 points
    The path to becoming an Unicum begins here. Tip of the day offers detailed guides to many over-looked gameplay mechanics to allow you to excel in combat. Let's begin, shall we? "Hacks! There's no way you can penetrate my T32's gun mantlet!" "My IS-3's turret is stronger than that!" True, true... but it wasn't your mantlet or turret that was penetrated. Welcome to the rarely discussed, hardly known and strange world of shot trapping. Before Patch 9.4, shells which bounced off of a tank would disappear as soon as they stopped contact with said tank. Even then, mysterious seemingly impossible penetrations were occurring. Post 9.4, shells may keep travelling into other tanks if they bounce their original target. Yet some of these penetrations remained un-explained. The answer? Shot trapping. Shot trapping is ricocheting a shell off of an enemy tank in such a manner that the bounced shell hits the same tank a second time, except now in a much weaker location. The word "trap" comes from the fact that you are essentially trapping a shell in a very small, confided area within the enemy tank; typically between a tank's gun mantle and hull, although it can occur in other situations as well (Bouncing the hull roof of a Cromwell, into its exhaust release). Why should you shot trap? Easy - if you're facing a hull-down T32, IS-3, etc., your options when it comes to penetrating the target become very limited. A T32 only has one weak spot - the commander's hatch. The IS-3's turret roof is much weaker, but lower caliber guns will still struggle to penetrate, and low accuracy also may cause a problem. Shot trapping allows you to hit an angled, yet armored part of the enemy tank in such a way that the shell bounces upwards or downwards into the tank's turret ring or hull roof. Now the question is how does one accomplish a successful shot trap? Simple - shoot part of the hull roof from straight on so your shell goes into the turret ring, or more easily, shoot the lower part of the gun mantle of a tank with a hull roof directly below the mantle. If you shoot correctly, your shell will bounce off of the mantle and into the hull roof. *Hint: The sides of the lower part of the mantle are more reliable than the middle - typically due to flatter angles. Image references are below. The green mark is a ricochet off of the enemy armor. The red mark is a penetration. Spoiler See how this works? You hit the lower part of the mantle, and the shells enter into the upper hull roof of the tank. This is a close up of my aim when trying to shot trap. Spoiler It works on any tank too! Even against an FCM 50 t (although honestly, FCM's are easy to penetrate regardless). Even the strange shape of the IS-3's mantle / turret allows for shot trapping! Spoiler Last but not least, it works on strange areas of a tank as well where there really isn't room for a shell to be "trapped". Rather, you're simply encouraging the shell to hit a weakpoint by bouncing it at an angle on a flat part of armor (However, at this point you shouldn't be trying to shot trap - if you have a direct shot, take it. I just did this as a demonstration to show that it was possible, and to show how the basic mechanics of shot trapping work). See the magic below. Spoiler I hope this helps! If you'd prefer to see shot trapping live, send me a P.M. and I'll take you to a Training Room and show you exactly how it's done!
  21. 6 points
  22. 6 points
    v3.8.3 (03-08-2014): - new feature: auto-saving logs to _Aslain_logs.zip file (except python.log) - added Wide Borders of Map FULL version (heavy on DLC) - re-added Kriegstreiber's Crosshair "Mjölnir" v2.98 (for 9.2) - re-added 15m circle mod - updated Chat filter & antispam v2.7.3 - updated Progress Indicator Text Mod 0.9.2 - updated Portuguese language in the installer - fixed installing Damocles crosshair for J1mbo spg mode - fixed installing Locastan Wagons mod - removed Zoom x48, x60 (not working still)
  23. 5 points
    v0.1.2 (04-05-2015): - added Tikia's contour icons - added Semi-transparent Minimap - added Cry Havoc crosshair by ephex - added Cry Havoc iconset by ephex - added another version of markers without ALT - added Rising Sun flags on Japanese ships - added Notifications List by STL1te - added Docs by Dawos - added Overhead Camera - fixed installing Custom Consumable Icons
  24. 5 points
    Radze troche pokory, a kolega widze typ czepialski. Troche skromnosci nie zaszkodzi, pamietaj ze jestes tu gosciem. Nie mam obowiazku instruowania co jak nalezy robic aby osiagnac jakies tam efekty. Moj czas jest cenny i mam wazniejsze zajecia... Chociazby rozwijanie moda i tak odpisuje ci to z jednego ze szczytow kaukazu na wysokosci 2500 metrow, gdzie net ledwo chodzi.... bo akurat tam jestem i nie mam przyjemnosci zeby w tej chwili edukowac nowicjuszy czy wyjasniac ze uzywam skrotow myslowych.
  25. 5 points
    v3.8.5 (05-08-2014): - updated XVM-5.3.3 (b3067) - added option to disable garage event hangar (in the WoT tweaker section) - the 9 colors rating scale replaced with the 11 colors one (this is the new and official WN8 scale made by Wotlabs.net) - removed switch for rating XWN6 and WN6

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