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★ MT-25 Review: Speed Demon, Drift King, Autoloader Mania ★

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What's fast as can be, drifts like a boss, and has the damn scariest autoloader you'll ever face? The MT-25!


In this guide, I shall cover all of the various Pros and Cons of the MT-25, explain the gun and equipment choices, and give a general overview of tips and hints you should follow when it comes to driving this speedy beast.


Table of Contents:

  • General overview (With Pros and Cons)
  • Equipment and ammo layout
  • Gun choices
  • Gameplay style
  • Tips, Hints and Random Information
  • Comparison to other same-class tanks of its Tier
  • Overall Rating



General Overview:


The MT-25 is just "one of those tanks". It takes a lot of getting used to, but will pay off when mastered. On paper, it has several major drawbacks - the large size, low View Range for a scout, and very low alpha damage. However, each of those drawbacks can easily be countered or has a remedy to it. The large size for one comes at some benefit - the tank is 25 tons and has 45mm of armor. For a light tank, that's not bad... not only will most guns be unable to over-match you (the armor is far from effective, albeit it allows for lucky bounces unlike other scouts), but you will do more damage than you take if you ram something such as a Bulldog or AMX.The View Range is easily countered with Optics and some crew skills, which will cap it out right around 455m. The tank plays the role of an active scout or flanker, so you really don't need much more than 455m anyways. Lastly, the low alpha damage comes at the benefit of a very high Rate of Fire (RoF) and fairly good gun handling in general.


The tank excells at one thing in particular - speed. The tank hardly speed bleeds on turns, reaches the top speed in seconds and has a very good traverse. Mobility is without a doubt the tank's strongsuit, and allows you to easily out-pace and out-circle a large majority of tanks you come across. This is great, since active scouting and flanking is most effective in a fast tank. When you engage the enemy, you also have some kick from the gun. Good gun handling for the speeds you're driving at, combined with a great RoF and high APCR pen if it's necessary, all allow for you to pick apart the enemy fairly effectively. The approach to the enemy typically is very stealthy. Even though your camo values aren't the best (they're fairly good on the move, shooting is what will get you spotted), they are decent enough for you to get close enough without getting spotted for your speed to finish the approach before the enemy can react.


When you're being shot at, you can easily dodge most shells with your mobility, especially if you keep zig-zagging. You are a large target, but most people don't realize just how quick the tank is, and often times will miss you if you know what you're doing. There is one major drawback however - the mobility is almost too good for the tank's own good... if you're not careful, you will enter a very long drift. In addition, the lack of speed bleeding combined with great acceleration means that when you driver over even a tiny bump, your tank will be launched up into the air. If you become air-born whilst turning, your tracks will break every single time. When trying to escape the enemy, you need to be aware of your surroundings, as well as have an understanding of your tank's overall handling on the move. Personally, I have almost 1,000 battles in my MT-25... despite this, I still find myself drifting and losing my tracks when it's least desirable. The moment I stop focusing on my driving, I drift and / or lose my tracks. The mobility is very impressive, but does take a lot of getting used to.




  • ​Great acceleration (27.69 HP/ton ratio)
  • Very high top speed (72 km/h)
  • Minimal speed bleeding (Even on the hardest of turns over the roughest terrain you will lose no more than 10km/h)
  • Armor is thick for a light tank (45 all around on the turret, 45/40/40 on the hull) and will not be over-matched by a large majority of enemy tanks, which allows for some lucky bounces
  • Great RoF with the 57mm ZiS-4
  • Massive clip on the 37mm SH-37 (30 rounds)
  • High APCR pen for a Tier 6 light tank (189 with the 57mm ZiS-4)
  • Fairly good camo values on the move
  • Is more effective at circling enemy targets than any other light tank of its Tier and almost all higher Tier light tanks
  • The 57mm ZiS-4 is extremely accurate (.34 accuracy)
  • The gun handling on all guns is very good considering the speed of the tank
  • The 37mm SH-37 unloads the entire clip in only 10 seconds (thus having a 1200 damage output in 10 seconds)
  • You lose very little speed when travelling over terrain, even on uphills (You can power up Himmelsdorf at 50km/h)



  • ​The armor might not be over-matched, but is very easy to penetrate (even by 105mm Howitzers)
  • The tank drifts very often (even on low speeds), and the drifts can last a long time if you're travelling quickly
  • The tracks will break very often on bumpy terrain if you're not careful
  • The View Range is low in comparison to most Tier 6 light tanks (only 370m)
  • The AP penetration is fairly low (112 mm), and may be reliant on APCR (although the APCR rounds are great)
  • The 37mm SH-37 autoloader has a very long reload (35 seconds)
  • The 57mm ZiS-4 has very low alpha damage (85)
  • 37mm SH-37 has exceptionally low penetration (46 AP, 62 APCR, 19 HE)
  • Unlike most light tanks, the HE is ineffective even against Walker Bulldogs and RU 251's. (19 pen with the 37mm, 29 pen with the 57mm)
  • The tank itself is a fairly large target; very easy to hit if you're not moving
  • The camo value after shooting is extremely low
  • Driver and Radio Operator die fairly often (However, the chances of it happening more than once during a battle is extremely low, so one first aid kit will usually suffice)
  • The tank has very low ground clearance - try to avoid driving over fences, houses, etc. as those will slow you down significantly.



Equipment and Ammo Layouts:



For equipment, I mount my MT-25 with Vents, Enhanced Torsion Bars and Coated Optics.


Vents: The reason I mount Improved Ventilation is fairly obvious - the 5% bonus to the crew is very useful, and helps counter the low View Range

Enhanced Torsion Bars: Without them, a shot to the tracks or a bump in the terrain whilst you're rocketing across the map will destroy the tracks almost immediately. The 50% bonus to the suspension's durability means that your tracks are a lot more likely to hold up on rough terrain. The MT-25 is the only light tank I ever mount Torsion Bars on, since I feel as though it needs them more than any other tank.

Coated Optics: 370m of View Range is fairly low. With rew skills and perks, as well as Vents, the View Range goes up to 407m... however, that's still low if you're going to be an active scout. The Coated Optics combined with Vents and Recon & Situational Awareness will bump the View Range up to 448m, which is just what you need to fulfill your active scouting role.


There are other choices of equipment which are also viable, although I do not recommend these.


Binocular Telescope: Binocs will allow you to passively spot the enemy, although the MT-25 is one of those tanks which should always be moving. Not only is your camo inferior to many other light tanks, but by passively spotting you are squandering the main advantage of the MT-25, which is the speed and overall mobility.

Enhanced Gun Laying Drive: Before I mounted the Enhanced Torsion Bars, I used to put on an Enhanced Gun Laying Drive. However, the recent buffs to the MT-25's aiming time make the Gun Laying Drive unnecessary. In addition, fairly good gun handling overall further reduces the effectiveness of an Enhanced Gun Laying Drive. Even before the aiming time buffs however, I found that it was much more beneficial to have Enhanced Torsion Bars in order to prevent the tracks from breaking. The MT-25 is so fast that its own tracks can't handle it sometimes... a set of Enhanced Torsion Bars will be much more useful than an Enhanced Gun Laying Drive.

Toolbox: If you have 100% Repair Skills, putting on a Toolbox is a different way to counter your tracks breaking. However, Enhanced Torsion Bars strengthen the suspension itself, which will address the problem at its source. The Torsion Bars will help prevent your tracks from breaking in the first place, whilst a Toolbox will help you deal with the aftermath of such immobilization. The plus-side of having a tool-box is that it will speed up the repairs of all modules, not just the tracks... however, 97% of the time it's only your tracks that break... thus I still prefer Torsion Bars over the Toolbox. In addition, the fact that Torsion Bars reduce the damage you take from suspension damage means that you won't lose as much HP for bad driving as you might without them. Lastly, the Toolbox should only be considered if you have 100% repair skills... otherwise, the benefit of the Toolbox will be very minimal as you won't be able to repair your tracks quickly enough to survive; whislt the Torsion Bars would help prevent the tracks from breaking in the first place. With 100% repair skills, the benefit of a Toolbox is significant enough to be a viable replacement to the Torsion Bars.




My ammo layout on the MT-25 depends on the gun I'm using.


  • For the 37mm SH-37, I load 100% APCR (360 rounds). The other ammo is absolutely useless.
  • For the 57mm ZiS-4, I load 50% AP, 50% APCR (Which just so happens to be 50 AP, 50 APCR). The HE once again is useless in every way.


I will be honest, when I'm using the 57mm ZiS-4, I tend to shoot a lot more APCR than I do AP. Having that 75mm boost in penetration, as well as 300m/s boost in shell velocity makes the APCR an absolute staple. Unfortunately, APCR usage on the ZiS-4 tends to be a lot mroe expensive than on the 37mm (even though it's about $300,000 to supply 100% APCR, per battle I find myself using a smaller percentage of my overall ammo with the 37mm, which results in lower ammo costs).


For the 37mm SH-37, I load 100% APCR... even then, you only have 62 penetration. The nature of the autoloader (which will be discussed further in the guide) makes it a very viable option however. As for raw ammo costs, I find that a larger percentage of my 37mm shells do damage whilst shooting a lower percentage of my overall ammo count in comparison to the 57mm. I shoot a lot of APCR on both guns, so for me the 37mm isn't as costly. For people who don't spam as much APCR as I do with the 57mm, they may find themselves earning more with said 57mm.


And for all the guns, HE is useless. Do not load HE in the MT-25... just don't.



Gun Choices:


Now, I'm going to go into more detail about the two guns. The black number is for the 57mm ZiS-4, the blue number is for the 37mm SH-37 autoloader.


Reload speed: 2.25 (37.5)

Aiming time: 2.1 (2.5)

Accuracy: .34 (.45)

10 second damage output: 377.77 (1,200)

Penetration: 112/185/29 (46/62/19)

Ammo Capacity: 100 (360)

Single Shell Damage: 85 (40)


Methinks a comparison of the possibilities and effectiveness of the two guns is necessary.


37mm SH-37 Autoloader:


Penetration wise, the 37mm Autoloder may seem useless... 62mm APCR pen won't penetrate many targets. However, the burst damage is absolutely insane. The gun does 1,200 damage in 10 seconds... for comparison, the M41 Walker Bulldog's autoloder does 1,500 damage in 20 seconds. That's only 25% more damage for 100% longer time required to unload the clip... this means an MT-25 using the 37mm autoloader can win a 1 vs. 1 fight with a Bulldog, assuming both start at full HP. The mobility, ammo count and armor also mean that you are very likely to dodge or bounce a Bulldog shell... it would take the Bulldog 2 seconds to put another shell into you, whilst if you miss, you only need a third of a second to put a shell in. If the Bulldog misses or bounces even once, the Bulldog has 0 hope of winning... and even if it doesn't miss, you still should come out victorious 9 times out of 10.


The reload of the 37mm is long... 37.5 seconds. The gun also has limited range - targets outside of 360m or so can't be penetrated no matter what. The 62mm of penetration also means that you can't penetrate the rear of an IS for example. The burst damage is what makes it so effective. Considering the mobility of the platform, the gun has a lot of potential.


When using the 37mm SH-37 autoloader, there are several different kinds of targets you should prioritize. The first of which are light tanks - you can win a 1 vs. 1 with almost any light tank you come across, and can one-clip any light tank you see... no exceptions. The only 3 light tanks that will give you any kind of trouble are the T49, AMX 13 90 and the T-54 Lightweight. If you can catch a T49 or AMX during their reload, you can kill them before they can get away, and the T-54 Lightweight just needs to be flanked. Regardless, those are the only light tanks that pose any real threat. T71's, Bulldogs, RU 251's, etc. are absolutely harmless... if they rush you (which they will do often), you can easily win an engagement with them.


Secondly, you should try to hunt down TD's with low amounts of side and rear armor. Whether it's an E-25, French TD or Rhm, you can easily one-clip it. Most TD's (even St. Emil's and Dicker Max's) you will have to flank in order to penetrate... however, once you begin dumping the clip, not only can you circle them faster than they can traverse their hull, but you will kill them in a matter of seconds. Only Tier 9 TD's have any hope of surviving an entire clip being dumped into them. The 62mm of penetration does mean that there are some TD's which you can't penetrate (some British ones), but it's not as bad as you think - most TD's (Let's say the Soviet SU's) have a 30mm hatch on their rear. Your mobility allows for you to easily shoot at said hatch and clip them. Even AT-15's and AT-15A's have a spot such as this, which means that most TD's are very tasty morsels if you know where to shoot them. There is one TD that I must tell you to proceed with caution when engaging - the E-25 is very easy to clip if you get to its side, but it's also an extremely small target... you won't be able to shoot if you're hugging it, so keep a slight distance from it. The same applies to TD's such as the T28 - the non-angled 50mm side is below your gun depression if you're hugging the tank - keep a small distance from tanks you shoot at, and you will very little trouble penetrating (if they lack armor).


The last 3 kinds of tanks you should prioritize are American tanks, French tanks and artillery. American tanks tend to have 36mm-51mm of rear armor... in addition, they're not fast enough to turn their hulls to prevent you from having shots at said rear. There is a benefit to having the 37mm autoloader - because the shells have actual caliber to them (37mm), and they're not machine gun shells, they are very likely to destroy modules they come across. Most American tanks you can only penetrate in the rear... however, that's where the engine of the tank is. Once you begin unloading your clip into the rear of a tank,  most of the time you will knock out and destroy the engine before the tank can turn its hull enough to where you can't penetrate it. This means that you immobilize the target you're shooting at, giving you the opportunity to easily dump the entire 1200 damage clip. Since you unload it in 10 seconds, you will be able to unload the clip and get away before the tank can reload and shoot you.


As for French tanks, they have paper sides and rear. All Frenchies are tasty morsels if you can get around them... since most Frenchies have autoloaders, you simply need to catch them during their reload. There is only one french tank which may give you trouble, and that's the AMX 50 120... unlike all other French tanks, the 50 120 actually has 80mm of side armor and 60mm of rear armor, which makes it very tough for your autoloader to penetrate. Every other French tank you will meet however is extremely easy to penetrate if you flank it.


Artillery are easy to kill before they can react. Your mobility allows for you to find an arty and flank it before it can even turn towards you. However, if you're an approaching an arty that's pointing directly at you, I suggest using this manuveur: Let's say you're facing an S-51. It's looking directly at you, and you're getting closer and closer to it. First, begin driving off to one side so it's forced to turn to keep it's gun aiming at you. As soon as you reach the point where the arty's gun is beginning to catch up to your tank's positioning, quickly change directions and cross the arty's line of fire. Most arty players do not expect you to do this, and thus you will catch them by surprise and be able to safely flank them. As you're moving to the (let's say right) side of the S-51 in the example, it will be turning it's hull in that same direction. At first, your tank is further away from it's gun's line of sight... however, eventually the S-51 will be able to catch up to your tank. The moment the S-51 is within half a second of lining its gun up with you, turn to the opposite direction (in this case left). The S-51 will not expect this, and will turn its gun in the wrong direction for another second or so. By that point, you'll be far enough to the other side of the S-51 to safely be able to flank it. The last thing to keep in mind about artillery is that some arty (such as the S-51) have strong hulls... this means you'll have to manually aim at their gun shields.


In general, the 37mm autoloader is a gun to use with auto-aim... unless there's a specific weakspot I need to aim for (SU's, arty's gun shields, hatch on AT-15's, SP's side armor hole, etc.) I usually will auto-aim. When facing any tank you can reliabley penetrate, auto-aim will prevent you from missing. Typically, this means that you need to keep a slight distance from the enemy you're circling in order to allow the gun depression to aim where auto-aim wants to aim. In the few cases where manual aim is a must, I usually use Sniper mode at a low zoom level in order to have a better view of the weakspot I'm trying to hit. If the enemy whose weakspot you're shooting at is moving, then be cautious with Sniper mode, since your aiming reticle will bounce up and down with the terrain (if you're moving as well), whilst in manual aim you'll be able to keep your aiming reticle more stable, at the cost of a smaller view of the weakspot.



57mm ZiS-4:


The 57mm ZiS-4 has a very short reload and is extremely accurate. This means that it's great for picking apart tanks shot by shot at any range. The problem with the 57mm is the limited alpha damage. Any light tank you face with the 57mm is one which you should be very careful around. Unlike the 37mm, your primary task is not to hunt down light tanks and Americans or Frenchies. Rather, gun wise, you primarily have 3 different tasks, including sniping, circling slow heavies and turretless TD's, and providing general cover fire in a brawl.


When the battle is still setting up, you should be scouting... however, there are times when it's impossible for you to actively spot, whether due to the map or simply the enemy's positioning. If it's still early in the battle and you don't have the ability to scout, you can snipe. You will need to shoot APCR if you're going to shoot at range, but .34 accuracy won't let you down. However, you should only snipe if you have no better option. I cannot emphasize that enough... you are not a TD... your job is to spot and flank enemies. The only time to snipe is if there is absolutely nothing else you can do.


When the opportunity arrises, you should try to circle a slow opponent or a turretless TD. With the 57mm, you will have the penetration to go through most heavies and TD's with ease with AP, and your APCR is strong enough to penetrate the sides of even a KV-5. However, you have to be cautious around TD's with turrets, such as the Rhm or Tier 9 WT waffle. These TD's are fast enough to reload and turn their gun towards you before you can kill them (even though it will take them a while). Whilst the 37mm can kill an Rhm before it can even get its gun pointing at you, let alone reloaded, the 57mm cannot. You need to be careful around such turreted TD's with the 57mm. On the other side, tanks like a Tortoise or KV-4 are now possible to engage. You're fast enough to circle them with ease, and your APCR can easily penetrate them. Whilst most tanks you can circle, even some mediums, you still should be careful. The low alpha damage and relatively low DPM means that it will take you a long time to pick apart an enemy tank, which means that if there are other tanks around, you won't be able to stick around long enough to kill the enemy.


When your allies want to push a flank, you should come with them. Load APCR and provide cover fire. Pick apart the tanks with low HP, or the slow tanks which you can circle. As long as your allies are distracting the enemy, you can put your gun to constant use and provide a lot of help to them, and allow them to succeed in their push... just make sure that no enemies are aiming at you. The alternative is to push past the enemy which are distracted by your allies and hunt down the enemy's camping TD's and arty... or you could flank the enemy on the other side of the map and distract them enough for your allies on that flank to advance and push up.


Please keep in mind that you are a scout... when possible, you should be spotting. If you're not spotting, you should be flanking or shooting. If there are no opportunities to spot or flank, you can snipe... unlike the 37mm which has limited range and penetration, the 57mm will be able to put in damage at distance if it has to. However, when engaging a tank (especially lightly armored ones), the 57mm takes a lot longer to kill the enemy. This means that you cannot rush a loaded Bulldog or AMX 13 75... with the 37mm, you can yolo them frontally and win the engagement, even if they're at full HP... with the 57mm, stay away from enemy light tanks... even a Type 64 can kill you 1 v. 1. Even though the 37mm is a lot more effective against lightly armored targets, the 57mm can do damage to tanks with thicker armor. With the 57mm, you can impact a heavy tank brawl if you can avoid being shot at, but you will not be able to stop an enemy light tank or other very quick, lightly armored target from flanking your allies. The 37mm is just the opposite. It absolutely devastates anything without armor, and kills them in a matter of seconds (even if they're at full HP), but it cannot penetrate anything with decent-ish armor.




Gameplay style:


Honestly, I've already covered the gameplay style of the MT-25... the way you play greatly depends on your choice of gun. With the 37mm, you have to primarily spot, and wait for the opportunity to engage a lightly armored target. You can rush higher Tier light tanks with no fear of losing the fight, but have to steer clear of more heavily armored targets. On the other hand, with the 57mm you should steer clear of light tanks and similar targets, but should rather focus on circling heavy tanks, slow mediums, and turretless TD's.


Your primary task is to spot the enemy, your secondary task to to flank them. You can do a very effective job at supporting allies which are pushing, as well as flanking enemy on the other side of the map. Your mobility means that you can get anywhere you want in an extremely short period of time. You want to avoid being shot at since you are a light tank... the only time you can afford to take a hit is if you're using the 37mm autoloader and you're going to charge/rush a lightly armored target... and even then, the only hit that you can afford to take is from the enemy you're rushing... with the 57mm, you must avoid all fire entirely unless you know you can kill an enemy before it can kill you.


You must keep a very high level of situational awareness, in particular of your terrain. Since your tracks break so easily and you drift on many turns, you need to pay attention to how you're driving. If you become careless or stop paying attention, you could easily lose your tracks or drift and lose all of your speed.


Ultimately, you want to remember this: Scout, Flank, Relocate, Reconnaissance. Your primary task is to spot, after that you want to flank the enemy, relocate to a new position and start the cycle over again.



Tips, Hints and Random Information:

  • When approaching a target which is looking at you head-on, don't be afraid to cross its line of fire in the way I described earlier in the guide (The S-51 example). You have the mobility to easily trick the enemy
  • Use the drifting to your advantage. If you've mastered the art of drifting, you can use it to power drift into a corner and come out of it with your hull pointing where you want it to
  • Avoid destroying fences, houses, etc. Not only does it give away your location, but you have extremely poor ground clearance - the fact that you're such a light tank on top of the poor ground clearance means that you will lose a lot of speed when destroying obstacles.
  • You can do damage to almost any tank if you ram it at full speed... typically, ramming is a very suicidal thing to do, but it's something to keep in mind as a last resort (Yes, you can damage a Lowe or KV-5 by ramming, as long as you're going at your full speed and you hit it with your hull rather than the tracks)
  • When engaging a very lightly armored, light-weight target, you can ram it to do some additional damage (If you're approaching an Rhm that's not looking at you, start off by ramming its tracks to immobilize it whilst doing damage to it, then begin engaging it... this gives you the greatest hope of beating it. Or, if you're using the 37mm autoloader and you leave an enemy Tier 8 light tank at one-shot levels, you can easily ram it to death whilst you're reloading).
  • Do not get shot at... you're a very, very fast tank. If you need to relocate, please do so.
  • You are fast enough to out-circle almost every non-light and non-medium tank you come across. Your mobility allows you to do a lot more than you may think.
  • If you're not spotting, try to flank or at the very least re-locate to a better location.
  • If you're trapped against a rock with an enemy tank approaching you, show your side or front at the greatest angle you can get it to. Since you have 45mm of armor, you won't be over-matched by most guns, so if you have no other choice, you can try to trick the enemy into shooting you at a very extreme angle. Many opponents think that they can overmatch you and thus will shoot regardless of the angle... if you can get a bounce, you can use the mobility to get the hell away. Please keep in mind that side-scraping is not something you should to in this tank... what I described is a last-resort only, and you have to be a lot more stingy with the angle than you would be with any other tank.
  • If you find yourself in a fight that you can't win, try to run away. If you're ever in a bad position, your mobility will often times save you. Rather than trying to keep fighting, relocate.
  • Zig-zag when you're running away, but be careful - if you zig zag too hard or improperly, you will drift and ruin your chances of escape.
  • When travelling down a hill, if you intend on turning, either a) slow down prior to turning or B) turn ahead of time so you will drift to the location you want to get to, rather than crashing into a wall or something of the sort.
  • The 37mm SH-37 autoloader has a limited range. Even though it's not a machine gun, the shells simply "disappear" outside of 360m or so.
  • The 57mm ZiS-4 can be very effective at shooting at moving targets if you shoot APCR. The gun is already accurate as it is, with the 300m/s velocity bonus that APCR gives you, moving targets are a joy to shoot at.
  • If you're not spotting or sniping, you should be moving and flanking. The primary strength of the MT-25 is the mobility, you don't want to squander that by sitting still. That's why sniping should be a very limited role, and you should be an active scout rather than a passive scout.
  • Torsion Bars. 'Nough said. I honestly cannot stress them enough; if you're putting the mobility to proper use the Torsion Bars will come in very handy.
  • Avoid engaging enemy light tanks or mobile mediums in a one on one fight unless you're using the 37mm.
  • Unless you're using the 57mm, avoid heavily armored targets.
  • If there are only heavily armored targets left and you have the 37mm, shoot their tracks or just spin circles around them to try to distract them.
  • Surprise! The 37mm autoloader will make many people lag up if they have bad computers. Whether you're penetrating or ricochetting, people with potato computers will lag up when being shot at by that gun. If an enemy begins acting very strangely whilst you're unloading into it, that's why.
  • The gun depression is 7 degrees, but since the tank is so tall for a light tank, it seems as though it has less.



Comparison to same-Tier light tanks:

MobilitySuperior. Best-in-class top speed, acceleration and minimal speed bleeding. Only down-side is the constant drifting.

Alpha damageInferior. Most light tanks of Tier 6 do 115-135 damage a shot, the MT-25 does 40 (albeit a 3 round burst in a 10 burst clip) or 85, depending on the gun you use.

ArmorGood. For a light tank, the armor is pretty good. Only the Vk. 28. 01 has thicker armor at that Tier for light tanks.

PenetrationAverage. The AP rounds have below-average penetration, but the APCR is phenomenal at 189mm of pen. If you use the 37mm autoloader, then you have worst-in-class pen.

Burst damage / clip damage: Best in class. The 37mm autoloader has 1200 damage a clip, which is the best you will see at Tier 6.

Clip unloading time: Best in class. The entirety of the clip is unloaded in 10 seconds. T37 also unloads in 10 seconds, but has significantly inferior clip damage.

View Range: Below average. 370m of View Range isn't bad at Tier 6, but considering the MT-25 is a light tank, that's fairly low.

Accuracy: Best in class. At .34, the accuracy is the best of any light tank. Only the stock 55mm on the 59-16 has that kind of accuracy, but it comes at the cost of a long aim time. (If you use the 37mm autoloader, the accuracy is below-average)

Aiming Speed: Good. 2.1 seconds isn't the best in class nor worst in class. Good gun handling makes that 2.1 seconds a fairly good aiming time. (With the 37mm autoloader, you still have good gun handling, but a longer 2.5 second aiming time, which would be below average).

Battle effectiveness: Very good. Regardless of the gun you use, if you understand the play-style of the MT-25, it has a lot of potential and can without-a-doubt carry battles, both by your spotting and active flanking / damage.



Overall Rating:




The tank in general is very capable. Almost all of the down-sides to it have some kind of remedy for them, which ultimately allows the strengths of the tank to shine through. The few things which lowered the rating were the general size of the tank, the limiting factor the height of the tank has on the gun depression, reliance on APCR and the tendency to drift. Despite these few things, the tank has many strengths ranging from mobility to gun handling and accuracy to ramming capabilities to even APCR or burst damage. All of these varying strengths allow the tank to really excel on the battlefield, despite the few short-comings.


One thing to keep in mind is that the tank has a fairly high learning curve. It takes a lot of knowledge to bring out the full potential of the tank and understand its various quirks. However, once you understand the mechanics behind the tank, you're left with a beauty and beast, beast from the east with which the enemy simply cannot compete.




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