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★ Scorpion's Den: A (Detailed) Guide to Equipment! ★

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Don't worry. I see that you are lost and confused, in need of guidance and support. Lucky for you, thou have stumbled into the Scorpion's Den; with guides aplenty. This particular edition contains A (Detailed) Guide to Equipment. If these are the drones you were looking for, sit back, turn on some pimping music and read away... all of your questions shall be answered here.


Finally - you've bought that brand new tank, fresh out of the factory. You wish you could admire it's flawless construction all day, albeit a dilemma hovers about. You must prep your tank for combat, and that involves mounting equipment - yet you only have three slots, with nearly a dozen options. How to choose? It's time to unveil the secrets of equipment mounting.


Your tank comes with three equipment slots, no more and no less. The types of equipment available, as well as their effectiveness and costs all may vary based on various factors, such as:

  • Tank class (e.g. Light, medium, heavy, etc.)
  • Nation of the tank (e.g. American, British, German, etc.)
  • Gun mechanics (i.e. autoloader vs. machine gun vs. single shot)
  • Size, weight and armor thickness of the tank (This affects the type of spall liner available)
  • Equipment class; complex or not (this affects the way the equipment can be de-mounted)


Ultimately, what all of this means is that each tank will have different equipment options available. Some tanks (such as light tanks) may have very limited options present, especially if they're lower Tier or have autoloading guns. Others will have seemingly endless possibilities. However, regardless of the amount of equipment there is to choose from, chances are that more than 3 types of equipment are viable for the tank, so you need to firstly know what the equipment does and when to mount it.



The "What" and "When" of equipment - let's discuss... as soon as we differentiate between complex and simple equipment.


Simple equipment: Camo Net, Binocular Telescope & Toolbox


Mounting - Simple equipment has a single Credit cost associated with it - you pay the initial price ($100,000 for the Camo Net, $500,000 for the other two) and that's it. You are then free to mount it to any tank you want. The three pieces of simple equipment are compatible with all tanks.


De-mounting - It's free! You click on the equipment icon on the tank you mounted it to, press "Demount" and you're done! The equipment is then sent to your Depot.


Transferring to another tank - If you want to put the equipment on a different tank, simply demount it from Tank A, find the tank you want to mount it upon (Tank B), select an open equipment slot on Tank B and then click on the equipment piece. It should have a yellow taint to it with a checkmark next to it, meaning that it's in your Depot. Click on it and then it's re-mounted to Tank B for free. You can repeat this as many times as you want; no strings attached! This technically means that you only need a single copy of each of the three simple equipments to cover all of the tanks in your Garage. One time purchase that lasts your entire WoT career!


Selling - If you wish to sell your simple equipment, demount it, then go to your Depot and sell it. It's that simple. If you're selling a tank with simple equipment mounted, you have the option to sell the simple equipment or to send it to your Depot.


Complex equipment - All other types of equipment (every other sort of equipment other than the three simple ones)


Mounting - The initial purchase of complex equipment is a Credit cost, and the process is the same as with simple equipment; it can be purchased onto a tank directly or can be bought from the Store (in which case it will be in your Depot until you decide to mount it)


De-mounting - Complex equipment requires a fee of 10 Gold to demount. Once the 10 Gold is spent, the equipment will be sent to your Depot for future usage. However, if you cannot afford the 10 Gold yet you desire to remove the equipment, you may destroy the equipment. Destroying it is free, but the equipment is permanently removed from your Garage without compensation.


Transferring to another tank - If you wish to transfer complex equipment to another tank, you will have to spend the 10 Gold to demount it from Tank A. At that point, the process is the same as with simple equipment; select Tank B, select the equipment icon and it should have a yellow taint with a checkmark, meaning it's in your Depot. You can then mount it for free. However, if you wish to transfer the equipment yet again (perhaps from Tank B to Tank C, or maybe right back to Tank A again), then you will have to spend 10 more Gold. Each time you demount the equipment, or wish to send it to your Depot, you will have to pay another 10 Gold fee. It's actually a pretty good deal - it's much better than having to spend another 500,000 Credits (or whatever you originally spent on it) to purchase another set for a different tank, especially if you don't wish to keep the tank.


Selling - To sell Complex equipment, you have to first de-mount it (thus you will have to pay the 10 Gold fee). At that point, you are free to sell it from your Depot for half of the original Credit cost. You only get half of the equipment's Credit value; the Gold is non-refundable. However, if you are selling a tank which has Complex equipment mounted, you can sell the equipment with the tank for free; no de-mounting needed. You will also have the choice to spend 10 Gold per piece of Complex equipment to send it back to the Depot, if you wish to mount it to something else rather than selling it with the tank.



Now we can finally get into what equipment is available, what it does and when to mount it.


Spall Liners: Protects your crew from injury, reduces damage received from explosions and ramming attacks.

  • Small Spall Liner - 20% reduction in chance of crew injury, 20% reduced explosion and ramming damage received. (Does not change damage received from penetrating explosive shells. It only reduces damage from non-penetrating explosions)
  • Medium Spall Liner - 25% to the above values
  • Heavy Spall Liner - 30% to the above values
  • Superheavy Spall Liner - 50% to the above values


Spall Liners are most effective on tanks that:

  • ​​​Have thick armor values for its Tier
  • Are very large and very slow
  • Have a very limited crew count, and the crew is very vulnerable (e.g. D35; it only has two crew members and the Driver dies very often. The effect from a crew member dying is a lot more significant for the D35 due to only having 2; and an arty hit could easily kill both, thus removing the tank from battle even if it has hit points. For this reason, the spall liner's bonus to crew survivability, plus its protection from HE (thus from howitzers and arty) make it much more useful than it would be for some other tanks)
  • Are used for ramming, or are rammed into a lot. (If this is your reason for mounting a Spall Liner, only mount it if either a) there is no better equipment to mount or b) one of the other three requirements are fulfilled as well (e.g. KV-5 is used for ramming, but is also a very large target that is very vulnerable to artillery)


Ultimately, tanks such as the KV-5, T28 Concept, E-100 would benefit from a Spall Liner simply because they are prime targets for artillery and have thick enough armor to the point where damage from HE shells will be reduced significantly. Tanks such as the E-50M which are large but also used often for ramming can also be more effective with the addition of a Spall Liner.


Just keep in mind that Spall Liners are very heavy, and thus will slow your tank down. If a tank relies entirely on mobility, avoid Spall Liners (which means that Aufkl. Panthers shouldn't mount them, even if you ram often. You're already a very easy to hit target, you need that mobility to move around)



Wet Ammo Rack: 50% increase in Ammo Rack hit points. It weighs 1% of what your tank does (e.g. 1 ton if your tank is 100 tons)


So... when to mount it? If you feel as though your ammo rack is extremely vulnerable, you may want to consider this... just keep in mind that most fragile ammo racks are in the sides of tanks, thus if you keep your side safe, your ammo rack will be safe. If you feel that you will benefit more from more ammo rack hit points than you would from something such as Ventilation, then mount it.. otherwise, just keep your side safe and you'll be fine.


Wet Ammo Rack 1 and 2 have the exact same effect... #1 costs $200,000 Credits; #2 costs $600,000 Credits.



Cyclone Filter: +50% to engine durability. It does not change the time until your engine is damaged from a Removed Speed Governor (consumable).


Personally, I do not recommend mounting this - there are very few tanks which suffer too badly from engine damage. The only time I would mount a Cyclone Filter is if all of the following conditions are fulfilled:


  • The tank is prone to module damage in general, not just the engine (meaning more than one module is likely to be destroyed in a battle, thus are likely to spend a repair kit)
  • You do not have Repair skills to speed up your track repair, thus you are more likely to use a repair kit on tracks
  • Your engine is vulnerable; frontally mounted perhaps, easily damaged from the sides, or simply has low durability...
  • You tend to be shot in your engine often (you find yourself flanked and shot in the rear often, or you play an aggressive role in which tanks may often gets shots at your engine)
  • There are no better equipment choices


Please note that the Cyclone Filter has no effect on chance of fire; as that is directly associated with the engine compartment being hit, not critical engine damage.


Only Soviet and Chinese tanks may mount a Cyclone Filter (excluding lend-lease tanks with Soviet crews; e.g. Churchill III)



Fill tanks with CO2: +50% to fuel tank hit points. Whilst fuel tank damage has no effect on your tank, as soon as your fuel tanks are destroyed your tank will burst into flames.


The best time to use Fill Tanks with CO2 is if you have a tank which has frontally mounted fuel tanks which are easy to hit, or if they're very fragile in the first place and are hit often. Tanks such as the 113 (fuel tanks in the lower plate, which coincidentally is the main weak-point of the armor) may often be hit in the fuel tanks and possibly set on fire. An Automatic Fire Extinguisher should be able to prevent any real problems, thus the Fill tanks are unnecessary... however, on the rare occasion a double fire may occur from repeated lower plate hits, and after a while, the costs of the Automatic Fire Extinguishers add up... thus it could be considered as an option, perhaps as a replacement to Ventilation.


It's available for tanks Tier 6 and above.



Enhanced Suspension: +10% to suspension load limit (e.g. 100 ton weight limit would become 110 ton limit), +20% to suspension hit points (i.e. tracks will break less often due to your tank being launched into the air, fewer track breaks due to suspension damage) and 50% reduced HP damage which comes as a direct result from suspension damage (i.e. you take less damage if you fall off a cliff, launch your tank in the air, hit the ground at a strange angle, etc.)


So - when is it useful? For the most part, only on light tanks; especially light tanks with uncontrolled mobility (e.g. MT-25, it's extremely fast but drifts all the time). However, light tanks with which you perform many off-road maneuvers may also benefit (fewer track breaks due to poor driving, reduced chances of your tank being stuck in the open)


The second scenario in which the Enhanced Suspension may be useful is if you are driving a tank with stock tracks, which also has upgraded modules researched, but can't mount them due to excessive weight. If you don't mind replacing an equipment slot for an Enhanced Suspension, you could research and purchase all modules aside from the tracks first, then purchase the tracks last after you've gotten everything else... or perhaps skip the tracks entirely to save yourself some XP.


Enhanced Suspensions have a wide variety of names, depending on the tank you mount it on; sometimes it's called "Coil Rings", sometimes "Leaf Springs", "Torsion Bars", "Belleville Washers", etc. The costs range from 20,000 Credits to 600,000 Credits; it all depends on which tank you're mounting it uopn. It is available on all tanks.



Gun Rammers: 10% reduced loading time (10% quicker reload). This essentially would make your tank fire 11 shots in the time it would normally take to fire 10. Usually considered a "must-have" for all tanks on which it is available.


There are 4 times of Gun Rammers; each with the exact same effect (10% reduced loading time).

  • Medium Caliber Tank Gun Rammer (200,000 Credits)
  • Large Caliber Tank Gun Rammer (500,000 Credits)
  • Medium Artillery Gun Rammer (300,000 Credits)
  • Large Artillery Gun Rammer (600,000 Credits)


If it's available, put it on... being able to shoot faster means that you are more likely to retaliate against an enemy which peeks against you, you will have more DPM and ultimately will be able to cause more damage in a shorter period of time.


This is unavailable for most autoloders; however, there are exceptions for tanks such as the 59-16.



Enhanced Gun Laying Drive: 10% reduced aiming time. Please keep in mind that the aiming time listed in-game (e.g. 2.7 seconds, 1.5, etc.) is not your actual aiming time. There's a formula behind that listed aiming time, but I don't know entirely what it represents. All I know is that aiming times 2 seconds or below are good, between 2 and 3 seconds are decent, and 3 seconds and above are poor aiming times.


A 10% reduction in aiming time means that you will be fully aimed more quickly and you will be able to fire your shots more quickly (less time spent aiming = more time spent shooting = greater damage output in a shorter period of time).


This should be considered for tanks with poor aiming times, and especially for tanks with poor gun handling. However, there's a different piece of equipment which is even more useful than an Enhanced Gun Laying Drive which is listed below. Due to the presence of that equipment, an Enhanced Gun Laying Drive should only be placed onto tanks which fulfill the first of the following requirements and one other:

  • Poor aiming time and / or gun handling (This must be true for a Gun Laying Drive to be useful)
  • One of the main strengths of the tank is the gun
    • ​If this is true and there is a Stabilizer available (in which case mount the Stabilizer), then the tank also must not have other equipment available which would benefit it even more (meaning you would then be taking up two slots; one for a Stabilizer and one for a Gun Laying Drive. Is there something more useful than the laying drive?)

  • There is no Vertical Stabilizer available



Vertical Stabilizer: 20% reduction in gun bloom / aiming spread / accuracy penalties (due to moving, rotating turret, etc.). This does not affect final gun accuracy (e.g. .33 will still stay .33)


A 20% reduction in gun bloom not only means that you can snapshot more quickly and reliably, but it also means 20% smaller of an aiming circle, which means 20% less time spent aiming... this effectively is a Gun Laying Drive that had 10 shots of espresso prior to each battle (to keep it PG to avoid Forum bans...)


If this equipment is available, chances are that you should mount it. Unless the tank truly would not benefit very much from this equipment (i.e. already very good gun handling, and / or needs other equipment more so; such as some light tanks), then you should mount the Vertical Stabilizer.


On tanks such as a T54E1, which main strength is the gun and the tank suffers from poor gun handling, and there is no other equipment which serves even greater purpose, then put on both a Vertical Stabilizer and an Enhanced Gun Laying Drive.


This equipment is available for American Lights at Tier 5, Mediums at Tier 6, and Heavies at Tier 7. It's available for all British medium and heavy tanks at Tier 7. Available for all other nations starting at Tier 8, with the exception of the French AMX 13 90 and the Chinese WZ-132.



Coated Optics: +10% to View Range at all times (except when Binoculars are active)


A 10% boost to View Range can be very effective on a few tanks:

  • The first set being light tanks, in particular active scouts (meaning scouts which move around a lot rather than spotting from a bush; tanks such as the MT-25, LTTB, etc.).
  • It also can be useful for any tank that moves around a lot, and relies on spotting its opponent before the enemy spots it. Tanks with good camo values benefit even further from this, as the extra view range on top of their good camo will allow them to remain invisible whilst shooting at targets at a distance that it spots itself.
  • Also, tanks that suffer from relatively poor View Range could use this in order to compensate
  • If out-spotting opponents could benefit you and there aren't any better choices of equipment (some heavies or mediums, they don't need it, but sometimes it could come in handy, and there is no other equipment that's any more useful.)


Personally, I would only mount Optics onto light tanks and some mediums. If you use Binoculars on a tank, chances are that you don't need Optics (the View range bonus is not active when Binoculars are active). A few people like to mount Optics on accurate heavy tanks such as the FV215B, simply to have the ability to shoot targets that are a distance away when there is no one else there to spot. If this is something you think would benefit you, go ahead.


Don't fear! If your tank already has high View Range (let's say the T71's 400m) and you have Skills and Perks which increase it even further up to the 445m limit (You can only spot targets yourself that are within a distance of 445m or less), putting on Optics still isn't a waste - any View Range that exceeds the 445m limit will then reduce the enemy's effective camouflage, meaning it's yet still easier to spot the enemy, which is very important for active scouts or tanks that rely on spotting their own targets.



Additional Grousers: A strange piece of equipment that reduces your terrain resistance by 9.1% on soft ground and by 4.8% on medium terrain... this effectively means your tank will be able to accelerate and traverse faster on rough terrain or when you're off-road driving.


The effect of the equipment is partially counter-acted by the weight of it (1,000kg!), but that's not the main problem with it - whilst it is still useful when it comes to reducing terrain resistance, it's only available on a select few tanks, most of which wouldn't receive any real benefit from the equipment in the first place, as there are many other pieces of equipment that are more useful.


It's mostly German tanks that can mount it, and two Soviet TD's as well. The tanks that can mount it are the: SU-76I, SU-85I, Pz. III A, P. IV A, Pz. III, Pz. IV D, Pz. III/IV, Pz. IV H, VK 30.01 (H), D.W.2, Pz. IV Schmalturm, StuG III B, StuG III G, Jagdpanzer IV, Nashorn, Sturmpanzer II, Pz. Sfl. IVb and the Hummel.


Most of those tanks... just wouldn't see much use from it, or even if they would, there is equipment that would be even more useful. I do not recommend mounting this equipment unless there is absolutely nothing else that is of any greater use to mount (which I don't think is the case for any of these tanks)



Improved Ventilation: +5% to your Crew's effective skill level (e.g. a 90% crew is like a 95% crew with Vents).


Improved Ventilation improves your Crew's major qualification by 5%, which thus improves nearly all parameters of your tank's performance in battle. Slightly better camo, view range, reload, radio range, accuracy, aiming time... the effective boost to those aspects is approximately 2.5%, but regardless, it is an overall boost in your tank's effectiveness.


One interesting thing to note about Ventilation is that it stacks with the Commander's bonus (Commander provides a 1% boost to the rest of the crew for each 10% of Commander's training; it rounds up, thus a 75% commander provides an 8% bonus to the rest of the crew). Vents would thus give the crew a 6% boost rather than a 5% boost. (e.g. a 100% Crew @ 100% Commander, 110% rest of crew with the Commander bonus, would then become a 105% crew; with a 105% commander, and the rest of the crew would be at 116%, since the commander now has another 10% (rounded up), thus he gives the crew yet another 1% bonus)


That extra 1% doesn't affect your tank much, but it does mean that technically, Ventilation improves your crew by 6%; one percent more than advertised.


Vents are a very good piece of equipment to have on any tank you own, as it improves all of the characteristics of the tank... however, it's also a great piece of equipment to replace if there's a different bit of equipment that you could use more (e.g. You have Vents, Rammer and Optics, but you feel as though you would benefit significantly from a Stabilizer - you would then replace the Vents for the Stabilizer). Since the change in performance is minor, it allows you to replace the Vents with a more roll-specific piece of equipment... the downside is that removing Vents slightly reduces all aspects of your tank, not just one.



Camo Net: Adds to your tank's camouflage values after your tank has been still for 3 seconds. Your tank must remain still for the camo bonus to remain in effect; as soon as you move, you will need to be still for another 3 seconds for the bonus to re-activate. The bonus is + 10% camouflage to lights and mediums, + 5% for heavies, + 15% for TD's and +5% to artillery. Shooting and rotating the turret does not affect the camo bonus; only moving the hull / tracks removes it.


This is most useful for passive scouts (scouts that sit in bushes in aggressive locations to spot), and tank destroyers which do a lot of sitting still; especially turreted ones (T67) or ones with very good gun arcs, as they won't have to move very often to move their guns.


Please keep in mind that a Camo Net is only useful if your tank already has decent or better camo to begin with. Putting it on a Wt. auf. E-100 will do you absolutely no good, and will only waste an equipment slot. Do not mount it on heavies (no exceptions), mediums (there are *some* exceptions to this) or artillery (arty only get a 5% bonus, and would benefit a lot more from Vents, Rammer, Gun Laying Drive, Binocs, etc.)


The Camo Net is a piece of simple equipment (no cost to de-mount).



Binocular Telescope: +25% to your tank's View Range after it has been sitting still for 3 seconds, it only is in effect whilst your tank is sitting still (traversing the turret or shooting does not affect this bonus; only moving the hull [tracks] does.)


This is most effective on tanks which are effectively scout tanks in one way or the other (passive light tanks, mediums such as the M7, TD's such as the T67 and E-25, etc.). All of these tanks need to spot their own targets, and may very well do a lot of sitting still (i.e. they don't need to be active scouts, rather it would benefit them to sit still; the TD's to snipe, the lights to be able to spot from bushes to avoid being spotted, and the M7 to both, stay hidden, snipe and to not affect the gun bloom as much. ***Please note that the M7 should do a lot of moving around, it should only spot early on during the battle or when it is beneficial, otherwise it should be flanking and circling the enemy***


The bonus from Binoculars does not stack with Coated Optics (i.e. you only get a 25% bonus, even if you have Optics on your tank). This means that tanks such as the T67 would benefit most from Binoculars since it doesn't do enough active moving to justify Optics; and both would only help if they stacked. It would be pointless to put on both Optics and Binoculars on any tank in fact, unless it's a scout tank in which you tend to do both, actively and passively scout. If you do a lot of both, than both pieces of equipment may be useful... most scouts only fulfill one of the two types of scouting roles however, and thus only need one of the two.


Binoculars are simple equipment, thus can be de-mounted at any time without penalty.



Toolbox: +25% repair speed of destroyed modules (does not affect damaged modules, only destroyed ones).


This is primarily useful for tanks that tend to get tracked often; both for tanks without repair skills and with repair skills... either way, it's 25% less time sitting out in the open vulnerable to fire whilst your tracks are destroyed.


Since this is simple equipment and can be de-mounted and re-mounted to any tank you want as many times as you want, it's a great one-time investment - then, it's a great piece of equipment to put on any tank that you cannot afford equipment for. You buy it once, then all of your new tanks without equipment may benefit.


As permanent equipment however, I cannot recommend it unless the tank in question is:

  • Prone to losing its tracks often
  • Tends to lose its tracks when exposed to enemies in vulnerable locations (e.g. light tanks being tracked in the open would benefit more than heavy tanks being tracked whilst side-scraping.
  • Does not have better equipment choices



Now, we've discussed the differences between simple and complex equipment, as well as have listed and described the uses of all of the various pieces of equipment in the game. Anything else to mention? Of course there is! Smile_Default.gif What would a good guide be without extra, miscellaneous information about the subject matter in question?


Extra Info:

  • When playing a new tank, if you cannot afford any other equipment at the time, put on a Camo Net, Binoculars and Toolbox. These are the 3 bits of simple equipment, thus you do not incur a penalty for de-mounting and re-mounting. Buy them once whilst you can afford them, then never have to worry about bringing a new tank into battle without equipment again. Now, will these 3 be useful? Well... perhaps not... but at least it's better than nothing... and who knows? Perhaps it will come in handy on occasion. (Obviously, once you can afford more appropriate equipment, mount it. Please don't go around driving heavy tanks with Camo Nets and Binocs if you can afford Vents, Rammer, Stabilizers, etc.)
  • There truly is no point in purchasing more than one set of each piece simple equipment aside from convenience - if you have a lot of tanks in your Garage, it may be hard to remember which tank you last had the simple equipment on... however, if you have few tanks, or have few tanks which will ever use the simple equipment or possibly you have very good memory and can easily remember where you last put on the equipment, then there is no point in having more than one Camo Net, more than one set of Binoculars or more than one set of Toolboxes.
  • Stabilizer > Gun Laying Drive. Only use both if the tank really, really needs it; and the tank's main strength is the gun.
  • Optics > Binocs unless you do a lot of sitting still.
  • It is very well worth having some Gold around to be able to de-mount and re-mount equipment on tanks (especially news ones), rather than having to pay 1,500,000 Credits to put on all the complex equipment. 30 Gold vs. 1,500,000 Credits? Which is more valuable... *Hint: Not the Gold.*
  • In general, light tanks should use equipment that helps them spot, mediums should use equipment that aids their mobility and gun handling, heavies should use equipment that helps them dish out damage and take a beating, TD's should be able to spot, and dish out damage quickly. Arty should have Vents, Rammer, Gun Laying Drive. If Vents aren't available, then put on Binocs. No exceptions for arty, since you're all about the gun.
  • Take advantage of equipment sales!!! If equipment is 25% or 50% off (especially the latter), grind as many Credits as you can, and spend those Credits on buying as much (useful) equipment as possible!
  • Earlier, I mentioned the D35's crew problem. Whilst a Spall Liner does help, at Tier 2 you face a lot of howitzers, primarily from T18's. Arty also makes the chance of your crew dying very high. For the D35, I would thus not only mount a Spall Liner, but also a Large First Aid Kit (consumable) as that reduces the chance of crew death even further. D35 benefits from the Spall Liner since it's slow (thus easy to hit), has a limited crew count, and is often hit be HE shells (both from howitzers and arty)... in addition, the 40mm of armor is very thick for its Tier. Combine the Spall Liner with a Large First Aid Kit, and the crew problem is almost entirely resolved.
  • If you're grinding a tank you dislike, if you have the Gold to de-mount equipment and put it on, or if you don't mind spending the Credits, put some equipment on said disliked tank... in some cases, the reason for not liking a tank is simply not having the equipment necessary for success in combat... or even if you still dislike the tank, it will at least allow you to perform better in battle, thus speeding up your grind.
  • The World of Tanks Wiki has lists of compatible and suggested equipment for almost every tank in the game (with the exception of a few reward / tester / other server / not available tanks)
  • My typical equipment layouts on most tanks are: Vents, Rammer & role-specific equipment. If I need two pieces of role-specific equipment, I will also replace the Vents. The only time I would not put on a Rammer is if it's not available or if a tank truly needs something else (some scouts).
  • Brothers in Arms and Ventilation have the exact same effect. Having Vents is liking having BIA... having both is very useful, but if you need other crew skills aside from BIA, then putting on Vents is a good way to make up for not having BIA.



***List of recommended equipment for every tank in the game will come soon; it will be hyperlinked here once it is complete***


I hope this guide proves to be useful! I wish all of you the very best of luck, both in-game and in real life! Don't forget to have some fun as well! Smile_Default.gif

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